Your pants for every occasion
Who doesn't know it? The challenge of buying pants? One pair's too long, the other too short. Sometimes the waistband pinches, other times they're baggy around the legs – and none of them fit perfectly. That's now a thing of the past! We have the perfect pattern for you that you can customize to suit your individual needs.
Whether you want airy linen fabric for hot days, something chic for the office, or casual denim for everyday wear, these pants are a real all-rounder that you can sew exactly the way you want them. And if you're in the mood for summer, we have a tip for you: simply shorten the legs, and voilà, you have a stylish pair of shorts!
With a few extra effects, such as hemstitch seams, contrasting stitching or metallic embroidery, your pants will become a unique, personalized design. So, what are you waiting for? Get started and create your new favorite piece!
Saskia from @missesfirefly went for a thin, stretchy wool fabric in a neutral color to create the perfect basic pants for any outfit.
#sewingpattern #trousers #summerfeeling #allrounder
What you'll need
- Download sewing pattern
- SCHMETZ needles suitable for the fabric you choose. @missesfirefly chose the Super Stretch Needle and the Serger Jersey Needle . (The SCHMETZ Needle ABC can help you to find the right needle.)
- Pant fabric: 145 cm width.
Fabric consumption: 1.65 m for all sizes. - Lining: 140 cm width.
Fabric consumption: 0,35 m for all sizes. - Zipper 4 mm, 18 cm
- Fusible interfacing
- sew-on hook and eye closure for pants
Saskia chose a thin, stretchy wool fabric for her pants. But you can just as well use linen, viscose crepe, or any other fabric you like. Get creative – the Needle ABC will help you select the right needle.
Please note:
When printing the pattern, select setting "Actual size" or "100 %" to avoid measurement deviations. We recommend printing the test square (10 × 10 cm) first and checking the measurements. If the square has the correct dimensions, the entire pattern can be printed.
What size fits me?
Important: Our sizes cannot be compared with ready-to-wear sizes. It is very important that you take your measurements before you start.
- Tie a tight thread around your waist and pin the ends together.
- Take notes of your body measurements and use the measurement table to determine your sewing pattern size.
- Compare your body measurements with the table measurements. Your measurements may vary between different sizes. Choose the size closest to your measurements.
- Choose tops (for example dress, blouse, or jacket) according to the size of your bust; pants and skirts according to the size of your hips/waist.
- Always compare the body measurements with the table measurements, never with the paper pattern pieces. All pattern pieces already include a comfortable allowance.
How to take measurements:
- Full body length: From head to toe.
- Bust: Over the fullest part of the chest. The measuring tape should be placed horizontally around the body.
- Waist: Measure at the waist. The tape should be at the level of your navel. Add 2 cm if you prefer a looser fit.
- Hips: Place the measuring tape around the widest part of your buttocks. The measuring tape should be placed horizontally around the body.
- Back length: Measure from the bottom of the neck (protrudes slightly) to your waist.
- Upper arm circumference: Place the measuring tape around the widest part of the upper arm.
Women's size chart, full body length 172 cm
Cutting:
Sizes:
36 (38) 40 (42) 44 (46)
Note:
The trousers sit at the waist.
Pattern Pieces:
Pant fabric:
66. Front pant piece, 2x
67. Back pant piece, 2x
68. Front waistband, right
69. Front waistband, left
70. Waistband at the back, 1x in the fabric fold
71. Hip yoke, 2x
Underlap: 17 (17) 17.5 (17.5) 18 (18) x 8 cm, 1x (incl. 1 cm seam allowance)
Strips for belt loops: 40 x 4.5 cm, 1x (incl. seam allowance)
Lining:
72. Pocket bag, 2x
68. Front waistband, right
69. Front waistband, left
70. Waistband at the back, 1x in the fabric fold
Note:
The pattern pieces marked in gray must also be cut out of fusible interfacing.
Time to get sewing! Sewing instructions
The pattern includes a 3 cm hem allowance. Add a 1 cm seam allowance for all other seams.
Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of the fabric of the outer waistband pieces.
Finish all seams on a serger or with a zigzag seam. Sew all seams right sides together.
Fold front and back pieces of the pants left to left at the CREASE line and iron the crease.
Place the fold on the front pieces of the pants in the direction of the arrow and pin it in place.
Stitch the darts on the back pieces of the pants and press to the center.
Sew pocket bag onto pocket opening of front pants pieces. Turn pocket bag inside out. Press edge and topstitch close to the edge.
Pin pocket openings of front pants pieces left side facing to right side onto hip yoke. Stitch the pocket bags together on the inside. Baste side and top edges of pocket bags in place.
Stitch the crotch seam at the front pants pieces. At the right front pants piece, press the facing inwards from the cross mark.
On the left front pants piece, press the facing inwards along the marked line.
Pin the zipper under the pressed edge and stitch it in place close to the edge.
Pin the fly closed. Pin the second zipper tape to the facing of the right pants part and stitch it to the facing. Open the zipper.
Fold the underlay in half lengthwise with the right side of the fabric facing inwards. Stitch one narrow side (= bottom). Turn underlap over and press. Finish open edges together.
Place the underlap under the zipper and stitch it to the zipper stitching line.
Close the zipper. Topstitch the facing on the right front pants piece from the outside as shown in the model drawing, approx. 3 cm from the front edge, topstitch at the lower end in a flat curve towards the seam. Make sure that the underlap is only caught at the bottom.
Stitch the side seams and the inner leg seams and press the seam allowances apart. Stitch the remaining crotch seam. Press seam allowances apart until you reach the beginning of the curve.
Fold the strip for the belt loops in half lengthwise, stitch the edges together with a seam allowance of 1 cm. Trim the seam allowances, turn the strip and press.
Cut the strip into 5 pieces, each 8 cm long.
Baste one belt loop to the front next to the pleat, one to the back next to the dart, and one above the crotch seam on the top edge of the pants.
Stitch the side seams on the outer and inner waistband pieces and press the allowances apart.
Stitch the outer waistband to the top trouser edge, including the belt loops. Fold the waistband up and press the seam allowances into the waistband.
Iron the seam allowance at the bottom edge of the inner waistband toward the inside. With right sides together, pin the inner waistband onto the stitched outer waistband. Stitch along front edges and top edge. Trim the seam allowances and cut the corners at an angle. Turn the inner waistband inwards. Press the edges.
Pin the inner waistband edge in place over the attachment seam. Stitch from the outside in the seam groove of the attachment seam or hand stitch the inner waistband to the attachment seam.
Place the belt loops upwards, fold in the ends and stitch them onto the upper waistband edge keeping the seam narrow.
Sew the hook and eye closure to the waistband.
Iron the hem allowances to the inside and sew loosely by hand.
Feel free to share your pants on social media and tag @missesfirefly and @schmetz_official
