The Classic: Blue Denim Jeans

They are at home in the closet in many different forms: Jean pants have been a popular item of clothing for many years. They were first used as work pants by gold diggers in the Wild West. Today, they are an indispensable part of the fashion world.


Sewing can be quite tricky in certain areas because of the durability of the denim material. In addition, multiple layers of the material must be sewn together. In the following, we would like to explain to you in detail about critical seams and their corresponding sewing needles.

Generally speaking, you will have good results sewing with a Universal Needle of size NM 90 to 110. For the best results, we recommend using a Jeans Needle. This needle has a reinforced blade. This needle is thus more durable and penetrates multiple layers of the material without quickly breaking.


The inner leg inseam

The inner leg inseam, attached to the crotch seam, is a double seam in most jeans. In order to maintain a uniform seam width, we recommend using the Jeans Twin Needle of size NM 100 with a needle spacing of 4 mm. If you would like to accentuate the twin seam in a certain way, use contrasting threads like light brown or yellow, for instance.


The twin seam of the belt loop

You can save on one work step by using the Jeans Twin Needle of size NM 100 (needle spacing: 4 mm): You do not need to overlock the fabric edges of the loops with an overlock sewing machine. Simply flip both sides of the belt loops and sew them in one step using the Jeans Twin Needle. This gives the top side a typical double seam look and a zigzag seam to the bottom side.


Attaching the belt loop

You can use a Jeans Needle of size NM 90 to 110 to sew on the belt loop. The corresponding needle size depends on the material thickness. The thicker the material, the thicker the needle should be. Here, use a zigzag stitch with a low stitch width. The medium ball point on the Jeans Needle makes it easier to penetrate multiple layers of fabric.


The back pocket seam

A Jeans Needle of size NM 80 to 100 is also suitable for sewing the back pocket onto the denim. To create nicer corners, leave the needle in the sewing material and lift only the presser foot. Then rotate the material, lower the presser foot again, and continue sewing. This will create precisely sewn pocket edges.


The pant hem seam

We also recommend the Jeans Needle when applying a hem seam to your jeans. Alternatively, you can also use the Universal Needle of size NM 90 to 100 for all jeans seams, as mentioned above. Use a piece of scrap material to see whether you prefer the Jeans or Universal Needle.


Many household sewing machines have both a zigzag stitch and an overlock stitch for overlocking the material. An overlock sewing machine can also be used to sew any overlock stitches. SCHMETZ also offers this type of sewing machine needles. The needle system required always depends on the model of the overlock machine. You can find information on this in your machine's operating manual.

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